Phnom Pehn, the capital of Cambodia

united_kingdomPhnom Pehn is the capital of Cambodia, a quite filthy and creepy city in my opinion, in which I did not feel safe, mainly because all of the bad stories I’ve heard about stealing, especially on the riverfront. Basically, I’ve never felt more paranoid in any other city I’ve ever visited in this world. 2 nights in Phnom Pehn were more than enough for visiting the city and see the most important parts (The Tuol Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields).

This is a tuk-tuk ride in Phnom Pehn:

Things to do and see in Phnom Pehn

  • The Tuol Sleng Museum and the Killing Fieldsthe most important and interesting thing to see, Phnom Pehn is worth visiting just for this!
  • The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda (The Royal Palace is the residence of King Sihamoni. The Silver Pagoda has this name because its floor is covered in more than 5000 silver tiles (you can see them only next to the entrance, because the rest of the floor is covered by carpet).
  • The riverfront – kind of smells like urine as you walk there. I’ve seen European older men with young Asian girls and men staring at me from head to toes. There is also an aerobic session every evening – this was actually nice to see).
  • Wat Phnom – is built on the only hill in Phnom Pehn. Legend says that Madame Pehn discovered the pagoda built on this hill in 1373, in which there were 4 statues of Buddha.
  • Psar Thmei (the Central Market) – an art-deco building with a huge dome and good ventilation inside. They sell everything from jewelery to food and clothes.

As I said in the beginning, Phnom Pehn is a dusty and dirty city. I didn’t like it too much. The contempt grew even more when I saw the huge contrast between the Royal Palace (imposing, golden, big, fancy) and the rest of the city.

Interesting fact: there are no crossings for pedestrians and the drivers don’t really care that you are in the middle of the street trying to cross (so different than Belgium!)

The following photos are showing only the nice parts of the city in the most touristic areas, where we felt more safe to have the cameras around our necks.


romania_flag(Phnom Pehn e capitala Cambodgiei, un oras murdar si infiorator dupa pararea mea, in care nu m-am simtit in siguranta, mai ales datorita furturilor despre care am citit ca se intampla acolo, mai ales pe faleza. Practic, nu m-am simtit asa paranoica in niciun alt oras pe care l-am vizitat pana acum. Doua nopti in Phnom Pehn au fost mai mult decat suficiente sa vad orasul si sa vizitez esentialul – Muzeul Tuol Sleng si Campurile de Ucidere de la Choeung Ek).

De vazut in Phnom Pehn:

  • Muzeul Tuol Sleng si Campurile de Ucidere de la Choeung Ek
  • Palatul Regal si Pagoda de Argint – Regele Sihamoni locuieste in Palatul Regal, iar Pagoda de Argint – se numeste asa pentru ca are podeaua acoperita cu peste 5000 de bucati de argint, ce se pot vedea langa intrare, restul fiind acoperite cu covor.
  • Faleza – miros de urina te invaluie pe tot parcursul falezei; am vazut barbati europeni trecuti de prima tinerete (daca nu si de a doua) de mana cu tinere asiatice; alti barbati ma scanau din cap pana in picioare (brr); Ce mi-a placut a fost sesiunea de aerobic, ce are loc in fiecare seara (o sa vedeti in poze).
  • Templul Phnom – construit pe singurul deal din oras, a fost denumit dupa Doamna Phnom care a descoperit in acest loc o pagoda cu patru statui ale lui Buda.
  • Piata centrala – cladire art-deco cu un dom imens si aerisire foarte buna. Aici gasesti orice de la bijuterii pana la haine si mancare.

Cum am spus la inceput, Phnom Pehn e un oras plin de praf si murdar. Nu mi-a placut in mod deosebit, iar dispretul a crescut si mai mult cand am vazut marele contrast intre Palatul Regal (impunator, auriu, mare, ingrijit) si restul orasului.

O chestie intersanta: in Cambodia nu sunt treceri de pietoni. Ca sa traversezi trebuie sa o faci sperand ca nu vei fi calcat; soferilor putin le pasa ca tu esti in mijlocul strazii si vrei sa traversezi. Atat de diferit de Belgia!

Pozele urmatoare vor arata partile frumoase ale orasului Phnom Pehn din zonele turistice unde ne-am simtit mai in siguranta cu aparatele foto, dar tot eram cu ochii in patru.)

On the riverfront / Pe faleza.
On the riverfront / Pe faleza.
Bikes and motorbikes in Phnom Pehn
Bikes and motorbikes in Phnom Pehn
The riverfront / in fata Palatului Regal
The riverfront / in fata Palatului Regal
Aerobic session every evening on the riverfront in Phnom Pehn/ Aerobic in fiecare seara pe faleza
Aerobic session every evening on the riverfront in Phnom Pehn/ Aerobic in fiecare seara pe faleza
The courtyard of the Royal Palace / In curtea Palatului Regal
The courtyard of the Royal Palace / In curtea Palatului Regal
The courtyard of the Royal Palace
The courtyard of the Royal Palace
Idem
Idem
Architecture in Phnom Pehn
Architecture in Phnom Pehn
Royal Palace - view from the riverfront
Royal Palace – view from the riverfront
Take your shoes off when entering a Buddhist temple/ Trebuie sa te descalti la intrarea in templele budiste
Take your shoes off when entering a Buddhist temple/ Trebuie sa te descalti la intrarea in templele budiste
The Silver Pagoda
The Silver Pagoda
A nice view of Phnom Pehn
A nice view of Phnom Pehn
Entrance at Wat Phnom with Naga snake/ Scarile spre templul Phnom, cu sarpele Naga7 capete
Entrance at Wat Phnom with Naga snake/ Scarile spre templul Phnom, cu sarpele Naga7 capete
Buddha statue with money / Statuia lui Buda cu bani drept ofranda
Buddha statue with money / Statuia lui Buda cu bani drept ofranda
Man brought gifts to Wat Phnom / Barbatul acesta a adus cadou templului Phnom
Man brought gifts to Wat Phnom / Barbatul acesta a adus cadou templului Phnom
Wat Phnom/ Altarul templului Phnom
Wat Phnom/ Altarul templului Phnom
Wat Phnom
Wat Phnom
Psar Thmei - the central market with a huge dome / Piata centrala cu o cupola uriasa
Psar Thmei – the central market with a huge dome / Piata centrala cu o cupola uriasa
Central market
Central market
The dome at Psar Thmei / Piata centrala si domul urias. Aici gasesti bijuterii si multe alte produse.
The dome at Psar Thmei / Piata centrala si domul urias. Aici gasesti bijuterii si multe alte produse.
Jewelry and little Buddha  souvenirs at Psar Thmei
Jewelry and little Buddha souvenirs at Psar Thmei
A family on motorbike / O familie pe scuter
A family on motorbike / O familie pe scuter
A flower for your patience to stay till the end/ O floare pentru ca ai avut rabdare pana la sfarsit :)
A flower for your patience to stay till the end/ O floare pentru ca ai avut rabdare pana la sfarsit 🙂

Don’t miss:

As if life had no meaning: Cambodia’s story (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and The Killing Fields)

I am not the biggest fan of Phnom Pehn, but there are two things that made Cambodia’s capital worth the trip: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (the ex S-21 Prison)

united_kingdomIt’s located in Phnom Pehn and is easily reached by tuk-tuk. I went there ignorant and with no real knowledge about the atrocities committed in Cambodia between ’75-’79 and left the museum horrified, with tears in my eyes.

The short story: it all started on a beautiful spring day (17th of April 1975) when the Khmer Rouge (led by Pol Pot) collapsed Cambodia’s government. Having all the power, the Khmer Rouge forced all the people living in the city to leave their homes and move in miserable conditions to country side. Phnom Pehn became a ghost city. One school in the city was transformed into Prison S-21 (Security Office 21) and was surrounded by barbed wire and iron sheets. All 4 building of this school were used for detention, interrogation and torture of people suspected of connection with the former government, as well as professionals and intellectuals. Around 20 000 people were arrested in this Prison and then executed at the Choeung Ek killing site (the Killing Field). It all ended on 7th of January 1979 when the United Front for the National Salvation of Kampuchea (UFNSK) collapsed this regime. This former prison is now a museum of genocide crime.

(The Khmer Rouge = followers of the Communist Party in Cambodia)


romania_flagMuzeul Tuol Sleng, fosta inchisoare S-21, se afla in orasul Phnom Pehn si se ajunge in cateva minute cu tuk-tuk-ul. M-am dus acolo ignoranta si fara cunostinte despre atrocitatile comise in Cambodia intre ’75-’79 si am plecat trista, terifiata si cu lacrimi in ochi.

Povestea pe scurt: totul a inceput intr-o zi de primavara (17 apr ’75) cand Kmerii Rosii (condusi de Pol Pot) au rasturnat guvernul Cambodgian. Avand toata puterea, Kmerii Rosii au evacuat fortat toti locuitorii orasului, care si-au parasit casele si s-au mutat la tara in conditii mizerabile. Phnom Pehn a devenit un oras fantoma. Una din scolile din oras a fost transformata in Inchisoarea S-21 (Biroul Securitatii 21) si a fost incercuita de sarma ghimpata. Toate cele 4 cladiri ale scolii erau folosite pentru detentie, interogare si tortura a persoanelor suspectate de legaturi cu fostul guvern, cat si intelectuali si profesionisti. Unele sali de clasa au fost impartite in mici celule din caramida sau lemn pentru o singura persoana. Aproximativ 20 000 de oameni au fost arestati in aceasta Inchisoare, iar apoi ucisi la Choeung Ek (campurile de ucidere). Totul s-a sfarsit pe 7 ian ’79, cand Frontul Unit al Salvarii Nationale Kampuchea a daramat acest regim. Iar fosta inchisoare este acum Muzeul Genocidului Tuol Sleng.

In these rooms were detained cadres who were accused of leading the uprising against Pol Pot revolution. Their cages were furnished with a bed, blanket, cushion and mat. The iron bucket was to dispose their body waste. / Camera unde erau incarcerate cadrele acuzate de conducerea revoltei impotriva lui Pol Pot. In camera lor se gasea un pat cu saltea, perna si patura, Cutiile de metal erau pentru urina si materii fecale.In these rooms were detained cadres who were accused of leading the uprising against Pol Pot revolution. Their cages were furnished with a bed, blanket, cushion and mat. The iron bucket was to dispose their body waste. / Camera unde erau incarcerate cadrele acuzate de conducerea revoltei impotriva lui Pol Pot. In camera lor se gasea un pat cu saltea, perna si patura, Cutiile de metal erau pentru urina si materii fecale.

see previous photo for description / vezi descrierea pozei precedentesee previous photo for description / vezi descrierea pozei precedente

One of the 4 buildings of the school which was transformed in Prison / Una din cele 4 cladiri ale scolii transformate in inchisoare, acum Muzeul Tuol SlengOne of the 4 buildings of the school which was transformed in Prison
Una din cele 4 cladiri ale scolii transformate in inchisoare, acum Muzeul Tuol Sleng

Barbed wire / Sarma ghimpata de care va spuneam mai devremeThe buildings were covered in a fishnet barbed wire, preventing prisoners from comittin suicide by jumping down.
Cladirile erau acoperite in sarma ghimpata pentru a preveni sinuciderea prin aruncare de la etaj a prizonierilor

The buildings were covered in a fishnet barbed wire, preventing prisoners from comittin suicide by jumpung down. / Cladirile erau acoperite de sarma ghimpata pentru a preveni sinuciderea prin aruncare de la etaj a prizonierilor

This wooden pole was used by children for physical education, but was turned into interrogation and torture machine. The prisoners' hands were tied behind their back and was lifted upside down until he lost consciousness, then the interrogator dipped the prisoner's head into a barrel of filthy water (this shocked the victims, quickly regaining consciousness so that the torturer could continue their questioning) / aceasta bara de lemn era folosita de copii la orele de educatie fizica, dar a fost transformata in obiect de tortura in timpul regimului Pol Pot. Aici prizonierii erau legati de ambele maini si tinuti cu capul in jos pana isi pierdeau cunostinta, dupa care erau coborati cu capul in butoaie cu apa statuta, ceea ce ii trezea instantaneu, iar interogarea putea fi continuata. This wooden pole was used by children for physical education, but was turned into interrogation and torture machine. The prisoners’ hands were tied behind their back and was lifted upside down until he lost consciousness, then the interrogator dipped the prisoner’s head into a barrel of filthy water (this shocked the victims, quickly regaining consciousness so that the torturer could continue their questioning)
Aceasta bara de lemn era folosita de copii la orele de educatie fizica, dar a fost transformata in obiect de tortura in timpul regimului Pol Pot. Aici prizonierii erau legati de ambele maini la spate si tinuti cu capul in jos pana isi pierdeau cunostinta, dupa care erau coborati cu capul in butoaie cu apa statuta, ceea ce ii trezea instantaneu, iar interogarea putea fi continuata.

The absurd rules at this Prison / Regulile absurde ale inchisoriiThe absurd rules at this Prison / Regulile absurde ale inchisorii

Wooden cells for individual prisoners / Celule mici din lemn Some classrooms were divided into small wooden or brick cells for individual prisoners.
Celule mici din lemn

Brick cells / Celule din caramidaBrick cells
Celule din caramida

Local Cambodian students visiting the Tuol Sleng Museum / Scolari cambodgieni viziteaza muzeul Tuol SlengLocal Cambodian students visiting the Tuol Sleng Museum
Elevi cambodgieni viziteaza muzeul Tuol Sleng

The corridor of this ex-school The corridor of this ex-school

Some of the victims / O mica parte din victimePohotos of some of the victims / O mica parte din victime

Survivor of the Prison S21 / Un supravietuitor al torturilor din inchisoarea S21Survivor of the Prison S21
Un supravietuitor al torturilor din inchisoarea S21

Defintions of Genocide and Crime against Humanity for better understanding of the concept / Conform acestor definitii, se pare  ca ce s-a intamplat aici nu a fost genocid, ci crima impotriva umanitatii.Defintions of Genocide and Crime against Humanity for better understanding of the concept
Conform acestor definitii, se pare ca ce s-a intamplat aici nu a fost genocid, ci crima impotriva umanitatii.

More info

The scratched faces of all the monsters that are responsible for the crimes/ oamenii au scrijelit fetele acestor monstri care au comis crime si torturi (primul este Pol Pot).The scratched faces of all the monsters that are responsible for the crimes
Oamenii au scrijelit fetele acestor monstri care au comis crime si torturi (primul este Pol Pot).

The Killing Fields at Choeung Ek

united_kingdomAll the women, men and children imprisoned and tortured at S-21 were transported here, at the extermination fields of Choeung Ek where they were shot or bludgeoned to death. In the mass graves were found fragments of bones, skulls and clothes of those killed here. They say that fragments of bones are still getting to surface after heavy rains.

At the entrance they provide an excellent audio tour where I found out that one of Pol Pot’s slogans were: “Better to kill and innocent by mistake, than to spare and enemy by mistake”. Very cruel and heartless.


romania_flag(Toate femeile, barbatii si copiii incarcerati in Inchisoarea S-21 de care va spuneam mai sus, erau transportati aici, la Campurile de Ucidere Choeung Ek, unde erau impuscati si adeseori ciomagiti pana la moarte pentru a economisi gloante). In gropile comune s-au gasit fragmente de oase, cranii si hainele celor ucisi aici. Ei spun ca dupa ploi grele inca mai apar la suprafata oase. La intrare poti lua un excelent ghid audio. Unul din sloganurile lui Pol Pot era” Mai bine sa omori un inocent din greseala, decat sa cruti un inamic din greseala“. Cata cruditate!)

The Memorial Stupa at the Killing Fields, erected in 1988The Memorial Stupa at the Killing Fields, erected in 1988

Magic tree...the tree was used for hanging a loud speaker which made loud sound to avoid the moan of victims while they were being executed / copacul magic...in acest copac se atarna o boxa uriasa cu sunetul tare pentru a acoperi urletele victimelor in timpul executieiMagic tree…the tree was used for hanging a loud speaker which made loud sound to cover the moan of victims while they were being executed
Copacul magic…in acest copac se atarna o boxa uriasa cu sunetul tare pentru a acoperi urletele victimelor in timpul executiei

Mass grave at the killing fields / Una din groapile comune ale victimelor de la Campurile de UcidereMass grave at the killing fields / Una din gropile comune ale victimelor de la Campurile de Ucidere

Killing tree against which executioners beat children / Copacul sub care se bateau copiiiKilling tree against which executioners beat children / Copacul sub care se bateau copiii

No commentNo comment

Victim's clothes and fragments of bonesVictim’s clothes and fragments of bones

More than 8000 skulls are arranged by sex and age in the Memorial Stupa at the Killing Fields / Peste 8000 de cranii sunt aranjate in functie de sex si varsta in monumentul memorial de la Campurile de UcidereMore than 8000 skulls are arranged by sex and age in the Memorial Stupa at the Killing Fields
Peste 8000 de cranii sunt aranjate in functie de sex si varsta in monum

We got to the Killing Fields by tuk-tuk. The ride took about 40 minutes bumpy and dusty ride. The driver gave us masks for dust, but they didn't help too much :D / Calatorie de aprox 40 de min cu tuk tuk-ul, praf mult si gropi mai ceva ca pe luna. Soferul ne-a dat masti care au protejat foarte putin impotriva poluarii si a prafuluiWe got to the Killing Fields by tuk-tuk. The bumpy and dusty ride took about 40 minutes. The driver gave us masks for dust, but they didn’t help too much 😀
Calatorie de aprox 40 de min cu tuk tuk-ul, praf mult si gropi mai ceva ca pe luna. Soferul ne-a dat masti care au protejat foarte putin impotriva poluarii si a prafului

The crowded streets of Phnom Pehn / Trafic in Phnom PehnThe crowded streets of Phnom Pehn / Trafic in Phnom Pehn

This girl was begging just outside the Killing Fields. She has very sad eyes / Aceasta fetita cu ochi tristi a venit langa tuktuk-ul nostru sa cerseasca.This girl was begging just outside the Killing Fields. She has very sad eyes
Aceasta fetita cu ochi tristi a venit langa tuktuk-ul nostru sa cerseasca.

The ride by tuk tuk towards the Killing fields was dusty and bumpy; here is a youtube video of it:

Don’t miss: